*PHOTOGRAPHERS WARNING* This Is What They Want You To Believe
I think I agree with an article I read recently on Fstoppers. Lee Morris wrote an article on the quality of light as it comes from different types of lights. Some photographers believe that some expensive lights provide a better “quality of light”.
Basically what he’s saying is that the light coming from an inexpensive $124.00 speedlight like a Yongnuo YN600ex-rt is just as good as the light coming from a $2095 Profoto B1 500 AirTTL.
Many photographers believe that the light coming from expensive strobes or light modifiers is much better than the light coming from their cheaper counterparts when in reality this just isn’t true.
The expensive lights may be sturdier or perhaps more reliable but there are really only a couple of things affecting the actually quality of the light itself.
The color of the light
There is of course the kelvin temperature of the light. This is what we generally use the white balance on our cameras to adjust for.
Strobes, and HMIs tend to produce a “white” light similar to daylight at around 5000-5600 kelvin. Incandescent blubs (like a standard light bulb) produce much warmer (red) color.
To complicate things a bit, there is also a green-magenta “shift” or “tint” which can be measured independently of the standard temperature rating. I personally am not very knowledgeable in this area, but normally these shifts can easily be fixed in camera or in post. I have only ever had an issue with this color cast from one strobe and that was the original AlienBee. When we used that strobe outside it seemed to cause a magenta/pink color shift on our subjects that was difficult (but not impossible) to remove in post. Neither the Einstein unit nor any other strobe I’ve ever used has caused that problem again for me.
So other than the old AlienBee strobes, every other light I’ve used has been easy to for me to color balance. Some lights may require a manual white balance setting to produce “correct” colors and most photographers probably do not know this. On Nikon cameras you can take a “PRE” reading off of a white/grey card to get a perfect setting or you can set the kelvin temperature yourself and then go into the menu to add or remove a green/magenta to perfect the setting. Obviously if you shoot in raw, all of this can be fixed in post as well.
If you correctly white balance your scene I would argue that the slight color shifts of different light brands aren’t worth arguing about and certainly isn’t worth switching lighting systems over.