{"id":8028,"date":"2016-09-13T08:38:47","date_gmt":"2016-09-13T16:08:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/?p=8028"},"modified":"2016-09-15T14:03:56","modified_gmt":"2016-09-15T21:33:56","slug":"10-professional-tips-capturing-powerful-scenes-can-think","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/10-professional-tips-capturing-powerful-scenes-can-think\/","title":{"rendered":"10 Professional Tips For Capturing The Most Powerful Scenes You Can Think Of"},"content":{"rendered":"

[ATTENTION PHOTOGRAPHERS] Capture Breathtaking Views Without Risking Your Gear Or Your Safety<\/h3>\n

The world is full of spectacular places just waiting to be photographed. But what if you’re trying to capture something that is constantly changing with incredible power and speed? Wave photography is stunning but quite challenging for anyone who hasn’t tried it before.<\/h4>\n

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When we’re talking about the ocean and those powerful masses of water, safety is always the number one issue. Don’t do anything foolish and rush into the shore in the storm to capture some great shots. You may very well hurt yourself, or at least destroy your camera.<\/h4>\n

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GO TO THE NEXT PAGE FOR THE ARTICLE<\/h3>\n

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We have 10 great tips for you from professional photographers, that will make you succeed.<\/h4>\n

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500pxISO have put together a great article, with tips for wave photography from 10 professionals.<\/h3>\n

We picked 10 of their most useful tips to get you started in this area of landscape photography. When you’re working close to something as powerful as the ocean, it’s absolutely necessary that you take precautions.<\/p>\n

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ARILD HEITMANN:<\/h4>\n

When shooting waves in cold and icy conditions, it is highly recommended to wear neoprene waders. I like to get as close to the action as possible, and that means standing in<\/em> the waves. Wearing neoprene waders means you can stand in the water for hours without getting cold.<\/p>\n

BOBBY BONG:<\/h4>\n

Always bring a cleaning cloth to clean sea spray off your lens and filter.<\/p>\n

DAVID ORIAS:<\/h4>\n

To bring out the curl in the waves, use a long lens and try to shoot somewhat parallel to the shore, rather than shooting it face on.<\/p>\n

GIOVANNI ALLIEVI:<\/h4>\n

Protect yourself and your gear from the waves. Often times, to protect myself and my gear, I might decide not to use my tripod to be able to run fast if needed. When the wind is rough, I usually wrap the lens and the camera in a Ziploc bag in which I\u2019ve previously cut a hole into to make the front element of the lens peek through it. Use a rubber band to make it stay in place.<\/p>\n

JEFF DOTSON:<\/h4>\n

Do some networking. I always make it my priority to network with local surfers, sometimes I even meet pro athletes and these are the best days to shoot! It\u2019s all about the action, and these guys love it when they know there is a photographer around.<\/p>\n

JEFF HOBSON:<\/h4>\n

Get the right gear for the job. Sometimes, you can\u2019t get close to these large waves. 200-500mm is considered normal for many wave photographers. I do use 16-200 range quite often, but the extra reach will allow you to get incoming waves breaking at a distances and unusual compositions.<\/p>\n

KELLY HEADRICK:<\/h4>\n

While shooting, keep one eye on the water at all times. I have learned the hard way to do this, having been completely drenched before.<\/p>\n

SCOTT MURPHY:<\/h4>\n

Use apps to check the local weather and cloud coverage for tide and surf reports before photographing. The best photo conditions are high tide and partly cloudy skies.<\/p>\n

STEPHEN SCULLION:<\/h4>\n

Get to know your subject, especially when it comes to sports and action photography. I\u2019ve surfed for 15 years, so I feel that has really helped me achieve the surf photos that I\u2019m happy with.<\/p>\n

VESELIN MALINOV:<\/h4>\n

Shoot in manual mode. It\u2019s the first and most important rule for me. But it takes a lot of practice and lots of ruined pictures.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Get more tips for wave photography over at 500pxISO.<\/a><\/p>\n

Source: 500pxISO<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

[ARTICLE] Click Here For The Tips<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":20,"featured_media":8029,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[110,2315,115],"tags":[239,135,1376,1723,336,111,365,1415,1606,1476,1635,445,1608,976,1477],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8028"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/20"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8028"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8028\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10436,"href":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8028\/revisions\/10436"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/8029"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8028"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8028"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/modernlensmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8028"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}